The original version of this post (Weekend majowy – pamiętnik i recenzja) was written on May 6, but I needed a few days to translate it into English. It is about a very long weekend we had in Poland: May 1 (Tuesday, International Workers’ Day) and May 3 (Thursday, Constitution Day) are free from work, so almost everybody I know decided to take those 3 annoying days off and have a 9-day-long weekend.
Last night (and when I say night I mean the night and not the evening) I came back from Wrocław, with plans of spending the last Sunday as actively as the other days. Unfortunately, the standard throat-sinuses combo kept me at home. As movies, a dinner out or a bike trip are out of the question, I have decided to take a trip down the memory lane
I took the long weekend in two doses, with one working day in the middle to bring me back down to Earth for a while. Weekend A I spent in and around Bydgoszcz, weekend B in Wrocław, and the working Wednesday with its adjacents – obviously here, in Poznań.
It so happened that during this time I participated in a lot of cultural events. In this blog’s editorial I promised to include some cultural stuff here, so here is my holiday diary.
Bydgoszcz – at the River
The photograph below shows the view from the Zatoka restaurant where I had a dinner with my family at the beginning of the May weekend. A short review of the restaurant itself: the interior decor is pleasant and stylish, but asks to be spruced up a bit; the surroudings (in the very centre of the city) are beautiful; the service is great; the food is average, and when I say average I mean exactly this: not very good, but not very bad either, only the dessert menu rocks; no wine card. Please blame the poor quality of the photo on my mobile and the Sun – I did not see anything in the display (at least I straightened the photo for you in Adobe Lightroom). I know I am drifting away from my main subject, but I really want to say it when my mobile got in the spotlight for a while. In Lapland my Taiwanese phone offered me the following piece of information: “it is too cold to use the flash”. Of course, a Nokia phone (all my previous phones were Nokias, sob) would never pull a stunt like this, so I am keeping my fingers crossed for Lumia.

Bydgoszcz-style BBQ
In the photo above you can see a boat with a small grill and a tablecloth-covered table. A moment after I took it, the boat sailed away to the river (Brda). I am mentioning this partly to emphasize the fact that although in general I think Poznań is a place much more interesting than my hometown, I am unable to understand why it turned its back (to say the least) at the river (Warta). The most beautiful places in Bydgoszcz are those at the river, and you can come across attractions such as water trams (including one running on solar power) which you can use on with normal public communication ticket.
Bydgoszcz – the Opera
Another thing at the river bank in Bydgoszcz is Opera Nova. The building has been in construction ever since I remember (and I remember far, including when my 2 years younger sister was born). According to Wikipedia, the first stilts where placed there between 1973 and 1976. The opening ceremony was held in 2006, but first performances were given, in austere, sand-covered interiors, as soon as in 1994, during the First Bydgoszcz Opera Festival. And I was there… Just as I was for every other installment of the thing. My parents decided to educate me musically, forcing me to go to the performances, beguiling me with the nasty promise that I would thank them when I am grown up. NO I HAVEN’T AND NO I WON’T!
Of all classical theatre forms I think opera is the least valuable one (artificial style, two hit arias per piece and a lot of fillers), and the 4-hour-long performances are suited for children as perfectly as the Tridentine mass.
Still, decades after, I must admit that I can appreciate opera from time to time, so I went with my family to the first performance of this year’s festival. They opening show was Rusalka by Antonín Dvořák. To me: a Slavonic treat among the Mediterranean evergreens. The performance, just like the seats (3rd row) was excellent. My husband went through hard times, unfortunately… He was afraid to go there from the very beginning, as years before he had the bad luck to see an opera performance (in Warsaw) which ended with a swarm of dancing and singing (everyone its own line) cockchafers (BTW, do you have any idea what that might have been?). I promised him that something like that would not happen again, and then, in the middle of the second act, a man with a shark head appeared on stage, out of nowhere. From the neighbouring seat I heard a terrified whisper: “cockchafers, cockchafers”.
What I did not like during the ceremony, and in fact I disliked it strongly, was the speech by Sławomir Pietras. It was long, that is the first thing – a German guy sitting behind us kept repeating a phrase which Dawid translated as “get down to work!”. The second thing was that he talked about finances a lot. It is justified to some extent, as the Bydgoszcz opera is drastically underfinanced compared to other institutions, but I felt it did not really match the mood of the evening. Last but definitely not least, he started to stir up very unelegant antagonisms, pouring a lot of contempt while mentioning the “big beat” (this is actually a very old term to describe rock music in Poland) bands that are supposed to play during UEFA Euro 2012 held in Poland and Ukraine, while there is no money for the opera… I guess it did not occur to him, even for a second, that he might be talking to people who can enjoy both those types of entertainment.
Also, I just learned that in one of the “Euro spectator zones” in Poznań we will have a Die Antwoord concert. Cool.
I Cannot Believe It Myself – Solec Kujawski
As the title suggests: against all odds and expectations, during the May weekend I went to Solec Kujawski. My parents-in-law (this post is the first time I use this word for real) decided to take a trip around Northern Poland, and the trip included Jurapark – a (static) Jurrasic park with real-size dinosaur figures. Solec Kujawski is a town 20 km from Bydgoszcz, but it was the first time I actually went there!
The dinosaurs (and the single mammoth) turned out to be fun. I recommend this place to everybody looking for a fun trip with children: it has both educational and entertainment qualitites. If you crave more, the Zaurolandia place on the route from Bydgoszcz to Poznań is not so far.
Poznań – KontenerArt Opening
Having said goodbye to the dinos, I set off to Poznań, trying to make it for the KontenerArt opening. I had heard an evening storm forecasts, but when I saw that streets in Poznań were wet, I concluded it must have already happened, and left the umbrella at home. Of course, we had to run for our lives from Kontener to Meskalina, when the storm came back in the evening. Kontener itself: sand, fresh air, good music, nice design. And the people – they keep getting younger for some reason
Haters gonna hate – that there are teenagers pissing in the bushes, that there are butt-ends in the sand… Well, one thing I would like to complain about is the inadequate number of bike racks (see the bike forest photo below). The saddest part is that apparently the Municipal Office meetings did not go too well, and the music was turned off at 10 pm. This sucks… And I do not understand… The closest house is a good few hunder meters away, and the city centre is the place where things should happen! If you do not like it, move to the suburbs, or the quite blocks of flats districts – that is what I think.

Bicycle forest around KontenerArt
Poznań – a Day of Work, a Day of Vegging Out
I had to work on Wednesday, but then there was a great ladies night out. Thursday I spent at home (doing the Stanford Machine Learning course and replanting things on my balcony). On Friday I woke up with a sore throat. Conclusion: never spend the whole day at home!
Wrocław – at the Attic and at the River
We went to Wrocław to visit Ł. He is changing jobs and moving to Warsaw soon (to take on his dream job, i.e. games programming), so this was the last moment to go there on this pretext. We stayed in the attic of a building in the very city center. The photo below shows the smoking/conversation corner in the staircase available to the whole community – I whish my neighbours would organise space this way… I know, I know, I am one of them. You are not stuck in traffic, you are traffic

We wandered around Wrocław; I locked myself and got stuck in the toilet of the Małgośka bar; we went to the river and to the Witches’ Bridge at the Mary Magdalene Church tower. We even went to the cinema to use up the free tickets Ł. had. As the last three people in the country who had not seen The Intouchables (Nakache/Toledano) at that point, we enjoyed it a lot. I especially appreciated the opera scene
Wrocław – Asymmetry Festival
This was the last thing on the menu. There were two music festivals in Wrocław happening that weekend: the ‘alternative music’ Assymetry and a more general rock thing at Słodowa Island. Asymmetry Festival lasted 3 days, but we only went to the last one. Short impressions: the music was perfect! Apart from the ‘celebrities’ of Bohren & der Club of Gore i Killing Joke, the concert I enjoyed the most was a Czech group called Drom. The venue, Browar Mieszczański, was interesting and had the expected vibe, but it is, in my opinion, completely unprepared to host this kind of concerts. The reason for this is the sheer construction of the building which hosted the two main stages. The halls were long and narrow, and as a result only a small group of people could actually stand close to the stage, while others had to stay in the ‘tunnel’ behind them. To add insult to injury, next to the main, crowded Forum stage there was an identical hall, almost empty, from which you were able to listen to the concert (slightly distorted by the thick walls), but not see it.
Summing up, I might go to the festival again, because musically it was great (very rock-based for an alternative music festival, but then on the other hand we only went there for one of the three days), provided they move it to a different venue, or at least put the stages outside (I am not sure if the latter would be possible with residential buildings around).
Have you really managed to reach this point? I owe you a beer…